KU63 CONTROLLER PDF

Quick links. KU63 controller problem General Discussion about electric bicycles. The other will go into a future conversion project. I thought it would be a simple swap with the existing controller.

Author:Sagal Sagore
Country:Chad
Language:English (Spanish)
Genre:Marketing
Published (Last):21 April 2007
Pages:110
PDF File Size:17.75 Mb
ePub File Size:1.25 Mb
ISBN:999-3-92537-247-7
Downloads:56465
Price:Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]
Uploader:Akinogis



Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search Advanced…. Log in. New posts Trending Search forums.

What's new. New media New comments Search media. Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.

KU63 controller circuit board connections. Thread starter eHomer Start date Dec 29, Aug 20, I'm trying to figure out some of the external lead connections on what I believe is a KU63 controller. I know it sounds stupid now, but the reason was that the original controller had a very neat loom and waterproof connectors, carrying the throttle, control panel, brakes, and lighting to the front in one thin cable.

I converted that for use with the new sinewave controller, and it turned out very neat. Because of the original non standard loom, some of the board connections are not the standard groups and colours that I guess the KU63 normally had. The PAS control panel cable has red, black, green and blue.

I think the red is the red wire next to the main red in the controller, bringing the full 36v positive to the controller, I think the black is a common negative, I think the blue feeds the 36v back to the controller when the panel is switched on.

I don't know where the green "signal" wires connects to back in the controller there's no vacant green wire in there. I'm guessing that the throttle and PAS sensor connect to the red and black at the right hand end, and the signals come back on the yellow and orange. That leaves the three white wires, which presumably are the speed restricter and the brake cut off? What I've searched for on the web is a picture of the circuit board layout with the connections marked, but I've only found circuit diagrams instead.

Nov 22, murthly castle estate. Try Home on site go to solar bike scroll down to electronics you will see ku 63 click on it. Thanks for the reply John. I had found that web page with my Google search, and found it to be the most informative so far on the KU So may photos and diagrams, and the chap had even explained all the mods possible.

Unfortunately though, none of the photos showed clearly where the wires were connected on the board, and the diagrams were all circuit diagrams, with no circuit board layouts. I tried to trace the connections from the circuit diagram, but couldn't make any sense of where the external connections were made, or their wire colour.

Funny thing too, the wires that were visible were different colours to mine. Deleted member Guest. It's a KU65 not a KU I can figure out some of them without opening mine. If we can't figure it out between us, I'll open it. Last photo: Blue is return 36v from panel The white wire next to the black one is the speed limiter ground. The other two will be its partner and the throttle signal.

The Yellow one is most likely the brake signal. Its partner will be a black ground The red wire near where the battery comes in will be the 36v to the panel. The red wire at the other end is a 5v for throttle or PAS.

The thin blacks are all common grounds. There should be three: PAS, throttle and panel. This means you're missing two wires, the green signal from the panel, and the green signal from the PAS. The pad between where the orange and white wires are soldered is also an input to the CPU. Does it look like it had a wire on it? Curiosity beat me. I had to open it. Unfortunately it's wired differently. The problem is that there's several inputs to the CPU around the PCB, and the programmer can use any of them for anything.

The only one that's fixed is the brake wire. Which must be the white nearest us in the photo. The two pads are SH and SL for high and low brake signals.

Normally the brake yellow signal is on SL, but your white seems to be on SH, so I guess its partner was a 5v wire. I think I've figured something though. I think your signal wires are all white instead of green. Is the one next to the common grounds on a joined pad or on one marked SD. SD is my throttle. My panel signal goes to 3, which is the last pad next to where your yellow is, so yellow is probably panel signal. That's everything covered then. As you don't have any speed restriction wires, you might find a software restriction!

John, thanks for the pointer on where I might find some KU diagrams. Dave, thanks for all the effort you've put into checking your own controllers. I'll work carefully through your comments with a magnifying glass and meter on my controller board, then report back on here with whether I've got it going or not.

I'm very much obliged with your help on this. I've now worked through your replies and I think you've sorted it for me. I've taken a photo of the back of the circuit board and shown the front connections as insets around the edges of it. I should mention that the original loom was a complete sealed unit, which commoned many of the wires in a single cable to reduce the clutter running to the front of the bike for the panel, throttle, and brakes.

The controller therefore only had four cables coming out of it: An eight way to the motor, A two way to the battery, A two way to the PAS sensor because it was nearer and a multi way to the handlebars carrying everything else. So I would guess that last multiway had all the negatives in one black wire soldered to the board and all the 5v feeds in one red wire. As you deduced, I think the brake must have been connected to SH, and that the two microswitches were then connected to the common 5v within the loom.

You must also be right with the PAS and throttle signals being white instead of green. The SD pad between the 5v reds and the negative blacks is seperate, with just the white stub on it, so I'll take that as the throttle signal return. The colour probably changed from the green wire within the loom connections.

I shan't bother with the brake connection on SH at the moment, as it's just for testing. I'll get cracking with the soldering iron and report back after testing. I must say, the quality of workmanship on these circuit boards varies widely. As you can see from the photos, the original soldering on this KU65 is quite scruffy, whereas those Conhismotor controllers were beautifully soldered, even though neither of them worked though!

Last edited: Dec 30, The brake will work on SL. If you use a switch,the other wire will be a common ground. If you use an in-line hall sensor or similar, the signal goes to SL and the other two are 5v and 0v. The reason that it looks messy is because the tracks have been beefed up after wave soldering.

The wave soldering only puts a thin layer of solder on, which is not sufficient to carry the current, so it can heat up and melt off to cause all sorts of damage. They therefore drizzle extra solder on the high-current tracks to reduce the resistance, sometimes reinforcing with a strand of plain wire. Sometimes they don't do it on these KU series controllers, so it's advisable to do it yourself, especially on the KU with 30 amps.

It's a lottery whether they do it or not. I have a KU63 and KU65 in front of me. Neither have been done, but they should be OK at 15 amps.

The thicker reinforced tracks would mean less heat, so higher efficiency, so whenever you open one, you should beef them up if not already done, but double check for whiskers and bridges afterwards.

They're beefed up already Dave, with wire and solder, just as you say. I've got it back together now and just tried it. No bangs or smoke , and the panel lights up an the buttons and leds works ok. I can't get it to spin the motor yet though. I'd forgotten that when it was last fitted to the bike that the throttle wouldn't work without the pas turning first, so I'll have to rig something up to test that.

I'm not dexterous enough to flick the magnet rapidly past the sensor and turn the twist grip at the same time! Is there a mod that can be done to the KU65, so that throttle can be used from standstill, and yet still enable pas if switched on? Reactions: Jasong.

BTW AANGIFTE NIEUWBOUW FORMULIER 106 PDF

ku63 motor controller

The S-KU63 may also give insight into other Chinese motor controllers. China brushless motor controller schematic. If someone finds a bug, please report! Reengineering the China motor controller. KU63 motor controller bottom. KU63 motor controller top, without some capacitors. On the website of Casainho in Portugal there also much information about motor controllers and his open-source software project.

CMS-L564 PDF

China KU63 motor controller circuit (reengineered)

Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search Advanced…. Log in. New posts Trending Search forums.

Related Articles